Role of Amino Acid–Lipid Complexes in The Restoration of Lightened and Decolorized Hair
Abstract
The study is aimed at a comprehensive evaluation of the effectiveness of an original protective care protocol based on the synergistic interaction of low-molecular-weight amino acids and biomimetic lipid compositions (functional analogues of 18-methyleicosanoic acid) encapsulated in liposomal carriers. Within the framework of the work, an extended theoretical analysis of the molecular mechanisms of keratin structure destruction and loss of surface hydrophobicity was carried out, supplemented by the results of a large-scale empirical investigation. The experimental block included an analysis of the results of other studies in which physicomechanical testing of fibers was performed in accordance with ASTM D3822, morphological assessment of the surface by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), as well as quantitative determination of changes in the contact angle of wetting as an integral indicator of the state of the lipid barrier. The clinical effectiveness of the protocol was verified in a multicenter field study conducted on the basis of 30 beauty industry salons. The obtained data indicate a statistically significant reduction in hair breakage by 70% relative to the control group, restoration of the elastic modulus to 85% of the initial (native) values, and substantial repair of the hydrophobic properties of the cuticle. It has been shown that the combined integration of lipid and peptide components makes it possible to prevent the phenomenon of repair fatigue, which is characteristic of classical bond builders, and provides prolonged maintenance of the structural integrity of the hair shaft.
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